Are there different size bmx bikes

It may take some trial and error, but this is the most accurate way. He has a wealth of knowledge and will be glad to size you up. A common mistake is to buy crank arms that are too long. Arms that are too long make the rider swing their bike side-to-side. If the arms are too short, they will not give enough leg extension or enough power.

The key is to buy the right size for your legs. If you purchase a complete bike, you will want to make sure the crank arms are the right size for your rider. Riders who weigh lbs or more should run at least a 20 x 1. Skinnier tires lighten up a bike but wider tires will give more traction in the turns. You will always want to try to run the shortest stem possible for the frame to make sure the steering is proper.

The longer the stem, the more "Oversteer" you will feel. Typically, you want your bars in line with your head tube angle for proper handling. You can pull them back slightly to bring your bars back for a shorter rider area, but do not go back to far. For more information on bike frame materials , check out our comprehensive guide. Freestyle BMX bikes are ridden by kids, teenagers and adults alike; therefore, although the wheel size stays consistent, the frame size can change subtly to suit the riding style and height of the rider.

Most freestyle BMX bikes off the shop floor will come with a 21in top tube so that riders have enough room to swing the bike underneath them if performing airborne tricks, as well as a shorter seat stay which is easier to whip around. Flatland frames are typically the only exception to this as they tend to be lighter and have shorter tubing all round for better balance and control. On race bikes, slacker head angle and longer wheelbase put the rider further back on the bike, which allows for improved stability and handling at speed.

Race frame sizes come in a broader range to suit the rider age spread that BMX racing sees. The 'standard' size for a BMX wheel is 20in, which is much smaller than a mountain bike or road bike. Even smaller 16in or 18in wheels can be found on kids bikes, and a larger 22in or 24in wheel can be seen on some 'trail' BMX bikes used for dirt jumping.

However, it is safe to assume that 'BMX' will generally refer to a bike with 20in wheels. Racing BMX bikes fall into two categories, depending on wheel size. The first is 20in - the most common, the second is 24in or 'cruiser'. Cruiser bikes are popular amongst taller or older riders, and also offer more stability. Because racing BMX demands lightening-quick acceleration out of starting gates, the wheels are lighter than in freestyle BMX.

The standard rim width is 32mm for freestyle bikes. For those riders who expect they will put a few more hard-hits into the wheels, can opt for a wider 36mm rim.

Rims are made of aluminium and can be single, double or triple walled, the more layers of metal provide more structural support, albeit at the penalty of increased weight. The ideal standard for a majority of riders is double-wall as it is a good balance of strength and weight. Advanced riders who put more demand on their equipment will generally choose to have wheels built up aftermarket to suit their requirements precisely and be more selective with rims and spoke count.

Spoke count is another thing to consider when choosing a BMX or buying some new wheels. Spokes are 'laced' from the hub to the rim and rely on tension to stay true and strong. The number of spokes contributes to the strength as well as the weight of the complete wheel. A 36 spoke wheel will suffice for most riders on a freestyle BMX bike.

More advanced riders or heavier riders may opt for up a 48 spoke wheel. Most spokes are made from steel wire and are the same thickness all the way through, but if you see something referring to 'butted' spokes, like butted frames, this means that the spokes are thinner in the middle and thicker at the end for added strength but reduced weight. Race BMX wheels will be anywhere between a 28 to 36 spoke build and have alloy rims engineered to shave weight where possible.

Being the first point of contact to the riding surface, tyre choice will affect the speed rolling resistance , grip and handling of the bike. For street and park riding, smooth rolling, wider tyres are preferable. Premium BMX tyres can accept pressures up to psi, which will roll faster than a lower inflated tyre and offer rim protection when under load after hard landings.

Dirt jumpers will opt for something with more tread for traction on the dirt and run their tyres at lower pressure for better grip. Wider than a race tyre, look for 20in x 2. The good thing is, tyres are easily swapped and changed, so you can choose to change them if you feel the need. Tyres for racing are usually narrower in suit the slimmer rim profile and reduce weight, as well as roll faster on the racetrack.

The centrepiece of a wheel, BMX hubs house the bearings on which the wheels spin and are typically made from alloy. Bikes or wheelsets at lower price points will feature open-cage ball bearings, which, while cost-effective, are susceptible to more damage and are less durable than the alternative, a sealed or cartridge bearing. Cartridge bearings have the small steel balls kept within a sealed unit, and as such are protected from becoming contaminated by dirt and debris.

Choosing a BMX bike or wheelset that features sealed bearings will mean a smoother and more reliable ride. The axle fits through the centre of the hub and then slides into the dropouts in the frame to keep the wheel in place, fastened with bolts.

BMX bikes do not use quick-release systems. Cassette: Essentially the same mechanism as a mountain or road bike, the cassette hub uses an independent driver fitted onto the hub shell. Weighing less and generally easier to install and service, cassette hubs are the most popular choice for BMX bikes in both race and freestyle disciplines.

Freecoaster: Freecoaster hubs divide opinions in the BMX world, and are often only selected to help with specific tricks and are usually only used by flatland riders. The point of difference is that freecoaster hubs have an internal clutch system that allows the rider to coast backward, so the wheel will actually drive backward without the cranks turning.

Freecoasters are distinctly quiet when pedalling but will elicit a 'clicking' sound when coasting. Because of their more intricate design requiring more parts, these hubs are typically more expensive and weigh a bit more than a standard cassette hub. Freewheel: These types of hubs used to be the standard, but have mostly been phased out in favour of cassette hubs.

Freewheel hubs have the sprocket sometimes referred to as the 'driver' threaded directly onto the hub shell. The smallest gearing available for a freewheel is tooth, which is limits gearing options for freestyle riders more about gear ratios and sprockets below.

Coaster: Coaster hubs are also known as 'back pedal brakes' whereby the ride will engage the brake when they pedal backward. Coaster hubs will rarely be seen on a freestyle BMX bike, except for kids and entry-level bikes. You may hear the words sprocket and chainring interchanged, but to keep it clear here we will refer to the chainring as the front ring attached to the cranks, and the sprocket as the rear driver attached to the hub.

Although BMX bikes don't have multiple gears, the thing to consider is the number of teeth on the chainring and sprocket and the ideal pairing of these, also known as the 'gear ratio'. To determine the gear ratio , you will need some basic mathematics. Simply divide the number of teeth on the chainring say, 25 by the number on the sprocket nine , and you will be left with 2.

The lower the number, the easier to pedal, the higher, the harder it is to pedal requires more force. This means it takes little effort for the rider to accelerate quickly into a trick or a jump, but means they are compromised on top and speed and power. BMX race bikes need to allow the rider to generate explosive power, so a much larger chainring is used. Most complete bikes will sit somewhere in the middle, and will be fairly well setup to take on most things, with the exception of some higher end bikes which are clearly orientated towards a more specific discipline.

We all know that price is important, so let's have a look at some of the key differences you'll see. We know that sizing is important, but when looking at BMX Bikes , what is the first thing you notice? Most of the time, it will be the price. But, what do you get for your money?

Most sizes will be under You will start seeing double wall rims, parts based on pro models and sizes will typically run between Full Chromoly frame, fork and bar, some after-market parts and premium quality components. These bikes will normally size from Most of these bikes if not all of it , you could pick off a shelf part for part. This is the big leagues and will be sized to suit. Cost effective to manufacture, easy to work with and stronger than your average mild steel.

This is lighter and stronger than Hi-Ten Steel. What this is, is a special process of heating and cooling the steel, after welding to increase the strength of the Cro-Mo steel tubing. Typically, you can make a fair judgement on what the quality material is being used, based on the price range. Crank Arm length effects how far apart your feet will sit when you ride. Where as " New School " street or technical park style riders are opting to run a 10mm shorter, mm crank.