Can you glue lignum vitae

It is broken in half with a clean cut to glue back together. Thank you. Have you pl. Brock , Arthur E. Overholtzer writes about removing pitch and tar from Brazilian Rosewood. After sawing to size. He agitated through the day and changed the detergent solution daily, for a week, then boiled in clean water, with 3 changes.

He taped the ends of the boards to slow evaporation from the end grain, and let them dry for a week. Titebond water-based glue worked fine on rosewood treated this way. One of his students, Rose-Ellen … Read more ». Has anybody ever had problems gluing yellowheart wood? Does it have a high oil content like purple heart or cocobolo? I have recently glued yellow heart and purple heart for a segmented turned bowl.

I had no problems and I used Titebond original. I know that the super glues have a tendency to break down in about 5 to 7 years, but I am wondering about the type that uses an Ultraviolet light to activate it.

I have had great success using it to repair ceramics, some wood, and plastic. I have even glued Teflon on cast iron. Since Teflon is so slick, it really presents an economic issue to bond it to anything. I also have used it to bond an old wood plane base … Read more ». In the end, it will come down to how clean the fit is between the two mating parts. It also remained flexible and had a discrete glue line. Temporary repairs ONLY, brittle, and degrades under all sorts of conditions.

These adhesives are specifically made for these woods. Never use cyanoacrylate adhesives CA or superglues except as a temporary bond — they always fail after a few years. I use the nonflammable formulation of Zip-Strip. I brush it on with a throwaway acid brush, give it a few minutes, scrape it off with a razor and clean up with water. Hello, Carter, thanks for the suggestion. However, could you suggest a brand of paint remover to try as there a lot of formulations out there?

I am a guitarmaker, and have used cocobolo on a number of guitars, both as back and side sets, and as fingerboards and bridges. I have heard a warning about pre-treating with solvents, namely that it can cause more oil to rise to the surface from within the wood, and so I have chosen not to use that method. What I do is I pre-treat the glue joints with a chemical paint stripper before proceeding.

I was under the understanding that that glue is not good for a long time. I cannot speak for the poster, but I can speak from experience. I have had no bad luck with inlays that were small and held in with superglue like glues. However larger parts exposed to prolonged stress often do fail. It can make a real mess of a fretboard, as the surfaces will separate, but enough of the superglue will remain in the wood making it difficult for a different glue to grab in a repair.

The glue sounds like urea formalderhide, such as cascermite, a powdered wood glue. I think the only thing that may dissolve it is water, as some manufacturers recommend that the glue lines are protected if using out doors There is A bowyer who has had similar problems with oily woods when using this glue and manage to repair them.

If the pieces have not comletely seperated and there is only a thin crack then use CA, low viscosity super glue If you wish to seperate the parts then steam may work. A red colourd resin I use called resorcinol Phenol … Read more ».

I am trying to re-glue a Dansk rosewood bowl that has separated along several glue lines. The old unknown type of glue is white-ish and brittle and I have tried many solvents to remove it from the joints, but none has worked. I glue up Ipe on a regular basis it is a very oily wood. I use Resorcinol resin as it is one of the only one that works well with oily woods. I used to Remove as much oil as possible using acetone but withe some pieces it would take forever and in some case end up more oily than after sanding.

Even so resorcinol worked very well. Now sand the suface using 40 or 60 grit with a new belt where the grit is sharp. I use it on knife scales and handles. The joint is basically Gorilla glue and the two wood pieces clamped until dry.

I have had to router out a line joining both pieces on the backside of the project and used a length of bamboo placed in the routed line with glue to give it some added strength.

So far this works. Since the backside is not visible it seems to work for when I have to use Cocobolo. Other Ideas? Members can turn off viewing Ads! JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. What is the best adhesive for lignum vitea?

Thread starter Gerard Scanlan Start date 10 May Help Support UKworkshop. Gerard Scanlan Established Member. I noticed the Lignum Vitea I recently picked up has a slightly oiled like feel to it, more so than teak. Can I just use a white pva for glueing Lignum vitea or does it need something else or different treatment prior to glueing? Gerard Scanlan":2u9lrlii said:. I want to glue the lignum vitea to a length of lemon wood and rosewood to make a lid for a box. Sounds horendous. The lignum vitea will be glued edge to edge with the lemon and rosewood and the planks are about 12mm thick.

It is not going to be under a tremendous amount of strain but I would like the top to stay together. Would a tongue a groove joint be strong enough? I normally just glue the edges of timber of this thickness together for box tops with PVA and I have never had one fail. I had also understood that the smoother the joint the better the adhesive will work.

Likewise, when wiping the wood down with a solvent it should be on the dry side so you aren't drawing more oil out of the wood. I used Titebond II, but the intent was for temporary attachment until screwed. Alan S Member.

There was a test done on glueing several different oily woods in Fine Woodworking some time ago 10 years? I'm not sure lignum vitae was included, but I think it was. Their main conclusion was that a fresh surface sanded or planed was very important to glue bond, while washing off oil with solvent only helped some glues a little bit. While many types of glue including titebond worked ok for many things, one that worked very well in all cases was epoxy. Come on now Pete, I searched the farthest recess of my brain to recall that they said sand or planing was best, and now you want me to recall what adhesive I used???

Sorry, I have no idea of what glue I used, it could have been epoxy, or Titebond, or even hide glue. My memory does not go back that far. Scroll to Top. View a Printable Version Subscribe to this thread. Product Recommendations Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. Bob Smalser has an excellent how to in the faq using maple so I'll follow that. I have a stanley 27 that needs a new sole to so I'll see how the first one goes.

Thanks again. CA Posts 12, I've glued lignum vitae for a number of applications including mallets and for a thin sole on a plane. The mallet, especially, gets a lot of shock and there's no hint of the glue letting go. I like Lignum vita for the sole of a wooden plane because it's hard and slick. Something like beech with wax will work fine, also, but I certainly never experienced any glue failure, and I've put lignum vita on new shop made planes and resoled antique planes.

If you don't put the Lignum vita cross grain, the differences in expansion should be small enough that the flex in the glue will accommodate it. I didn't do any thing special to prepare the lignum vita but I did glue fairly soon after cutting it within hours.

The large plane is intended for shooting so it has lignum vita on both the sides and the bottom. On the mallet, I didn't make the whole mallet of lignum vita because the lignum I had at the time wasn't long enough and there was no advantage in making the handle out of it. The core is maple. Attached Images Lignum-vita Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good. These types of planes aren't hard to find around here.

Every antique store is full of woodie's. I think I'll try the lv.